My last day in Saudi

I haven't already mentioned that in Saudi the weekend is Thursday and Friday and everyone works through 'our' Saturday/Sunday weekend as normal practice.  Which is why we were able to shop on Sunday.  Pretty much nothing happens on a Friday.... and imagine, no pubs or clubs, no music - it's banned too - no movie theatres, strict internet censorship and no lounging around in cafes drinking coffee for hours with friends...

It's a SHOE store!

My last day was Tuesday and Bronwyn had taken the day off work to join Louise and I in a girly day, and the last one out and about in Riyadh for me.  It worked well to do those last minute things before flying out that evening.  When we picked up Louise she had it all planned out.  Seriously, I can't believe how lucky I was to get to spend time with someone whose knowledge of the city and surrounding areas is amazing.  First stop... Shoe Palace.  You are met at the door by chandeliers and a massive glass vase and flower display.  It is as large as a small-medium Woolworths supermarket and it is here that the shoes are bedazzled and the handbags are supplied to match.  There was an unbelievable amount of lace, sparkle and designer labels but shoes and handbags are extremely important to the Saudi woman when those are the only things that can be seen outside of an abaya.  And you would have to be prepared to spend a pretty penny at Shoe Palace. 

We went to Al Guthmi next, a two storyed fabric shop... nope, you don't order it to be made in to something, you just order the fabric.  Again, a chandelier - they LOVE their chandeliers here - but this time over a grand marble staircase to the upper floor.  Think of a fabric, any fabric, and you can purchase it right here.  

I asked Louise and Bronwyn to help with a gift for my Mum so the next stop was Traditionals, a store for authentic artifacts from the region, better than what you would get from a souk but not hideously expensive.  What a lovely store.  I found some lovely little trinkets there for Mum but I could have spent a lot more time and a lot more money... ones bank account and ones suitcase can only take so much though!  Besides, Louise had a surprise instore for us...

The doors were the height of the whole bottom floor and were opened by a white gloved doorman before we could even see he was there.  Louise just has a way, and a confidence, and she had just led us in to the most stunning of jewellery stores where the very rich come to purchase their jewellery to go with those shoes and handbags we had 'visited' with earlier.  And we didn't want to buy... we just wanted to gawp at what we would never be able to afford but still we were led to armchairs and out came the black velvet boxes.   Well.... where does one start... a sapphire ring with a stone as big as my thumbnail, an emerald necklace and matching earrings and a 5 carat diamond ring worth 2.5m riyals... that translates in to around $800,000 and we were allowed to try on.  The store was Fatahi Jewellers and they were polite and hospitable - I don't think I would get in the door of a store that sold that kind of jewellery here let alone receive that kind of service when they know you won't be buying.

Coffee was needed after that and where better to go than a VERY swanky designer mall - which noone was shopping in - and in to a very swanky French cafe that hails from Champs Elysees in Paris and serves world famous macarons?  Obvious choice really.  We chose from Coffee, Cassis, Lemon, Rose, Raspberry, Coconut to name a few and took a seat in a wee parlour all decorated with blue velvet upholstery... and walls!!!  One could almost get the giggles really.  Fench music, fantastic service, pastel coloured, gold rimmed cups and saucers... La Duree was a little slice of heaven.  Even the coffee was great.  And, when prayers started we were welcome to stay.  Ahhhhhh.

Louise had mentioned the first time we 'hung out' together that there was a great place that did stuffed pigeon, a bit of a local favourite.  (Farmed, not wild I should add.)  I asked if we could possibly try that for lunch today.  So, off we went to a pokey corner shop and Louise marched in and order up stuffed pigeon for three.  It is stuffed with a full flavoured and herby rice before cooking then wrapped in a sheet of the thinnest bread and served with a soup made with the juices from the bird.  I should thank Justin at this point for being the person that made me comfortable eating with my hands because scooping the rice up with that paper thin bread... oh man!  I LOVED it.  I don't try 'different' foods easily but was so glad I did this time.  I mean, it wasn't that daring... it tasted a lot like chicken after all.

We took the elevator down to the basement after lunch, walked across to the opposite elevator and up to the same level as Louise's apartment, and voila.... we were at the clinic where she works, which parts of used to be her old apartment.  We had a look around the facility and were very impressed,  said goodbye, then left Louise to get on with her work.  

It was time to head back to the compound and for me to pack, ready to leave for the airport.  I was a bit worried about the weight of my luggage - I had my crystal tea set in my suitcase! - but as it turned out, everything was fine.  My 'friend' from Singapore airlines who had assisted on my arrival appeared out of nowhere as I approached the check in desk and was at the gate for boarding.  (He now knew that Brian was from the NZ Embassy.) Brian and I had gone to the other end of the terminal for a drink and hadn't heard the boarding announcement - it didn't help me that they were all in Arabic anyway! - so as we wandered back to the gate we were approached with 'last boarding call Madam'... ooops, I have NEVER been the last one on to a plane before.  Full of apologies I rushed to the gate and presented my boarding pass only for it to be exchanged for another that said 'Business Class'.  Well, talk about giggles again.  What a great ending to a great day.  I think I boarded the plane in a state of euphoria.  'Good evening Mrs Chambers',  'Can I help with your bag Mrs Chambers?',  'Would you like a drink Mrs Chambers?... you can have wine once we are in the air', 'Would you like a snack Mrs Chambers?'..... oh man.....

I do have to sincerely thank Bronwyn, Brian, Louise and even a couple of Singapore Airlines employees for each contributing to my Saudi experience in some way.  I feel as though I packed a whole education in to seven days and have to say... I would definately go back again.

A Saudi Christmas

Being a Christian ritual, the celebration of Christmas is absolutely forbidden in Saudi which means it is difficult to get anything like Christmas decorations and because they don't eat or sell pork you have to shop elsewhere.  That means Christmas decoration and gift shopping in Dubai and crossing a border to purchase any 'unavailable' consumable goods required for the Christmas table.  That was all done before I got there so when I arrived, the place already looked lovely and welcoming and the menu was planned.  It should be noted that although celebrations are not allowed in Saudi, what happens on the compound is the business of noone outside the compound.

We had done some of the prep the day before and I am happy to report that the cranberry stuffing that I made turned out beautifully although I was having my doubts at the sugar turning to toffee through the cooking process.  As it happens, the juices from the cranberries break this down and you are left with a tart, full flavoured stuffing.  YUM.  Apart from dressing the table and helping Brian to move furniture around that was my only true contribution to the day.  Bronwyn had everything in control in the kitchen and with the help of Josie, her house girl, things went to clock work and we were to enjoy a feast comprising 3 meats (including a handsome turkey), loads of vegetables, the afore mentioned stuffing and sauces.  Bronwyn's Christmas pudding was to die for and after a sliver each of that and pavlova, had had more than my belly really wanted to handle.  Curses for not stopping after the vegetables!  

 

From the festive table we adjourned outside to the courtyard area, under the warmth of outdoor heaters.  People slowly started to leave until there were just four of us left, making cold turkey sandwiches as we got peckish again later in the evening.

Not being able to get used to how dry it was and constantly being in air conditioning, I was tired so used the opportunity to sneak upstairs for an early-ish night.  And Josie had left almost almost no cleaning up to be done which was amazing... what a gem!

Boxing day started with breakfast and a not-so-early excursion to the Deira Souk where after walking up and down some laneways, looking at textiles, we actually found some Christmas decorations on a stand on the street - but they are not Christmas Decorations until a visitor calls them that.  We were lured in to the store by the vendor where there was soooo much more on display.  I could have looked for hours.  It was a bit like a smaller version of the haberdashery shop at Kuwaiti Souk.  Bronwyn bought some pashminas and I got two Christmas decorations to add to my international collection, and two bedouin masks (burka) heavily adorned with silver, chains and coins - which I just love.  I plan to get them framed and hung as a pair.

'Our' carpet vendor's store

Now, with 5 million people living in Riyadh, it is rare to just bang in to someone you know but it happened to me twice while I was there - well, not someone I knew specifically, but a friend of whoever I was with.  In to this small store we were in, walked the Harris's - the New Zealand Ambassador, his wife and children.  Of all the people, in all the tiny shops, it was a family that we had celebrated Christmas with the day before!  From there we all went to the very popular carpet shop of Mirzah Mohammed, with the finest selection of the most beautiful rugs I have ever seen.  Handpicked by the owners, and only the best brought back to Saudi, you are truly spoilt for choice.  I determined my selection by price.  Once we were looking in about the area of 'affordability' I looked until I found one I really loved. But as it approached prayer time, we left so that they could close up shop with a promise to return.  

The Globe

Leaving the souk, Bronwyn and I were 'Mutawa'ed' - my only time whilst in Riyadh and to be honest, I didn't even know it was happening!  I missed the moment completely.  Oh, I heard the "cover, cover, cover, cover, cover, cover" but didn't register that it was the Mutawa until too late and he had already swept past us.

To end a lovely couple of days, we were invited to have afternoon tea at the Globe, by Eric, friend of Brian and Bronwyn, and also a Christmas day guest.  Eric is GM of a hotel in Riyahd and fairly well connected it would seem.  We were given the royal treatment and had a magnificent afternoon tea, high up overlooking the Riyadh cityscape where I got some great photos.

Riyadh from The Globe

Change of scenery

Amidst all the madness that was the week leading up to an Antarctic Christmas, I was where they don't celebrate Christmas, in Saudi Arabia, discovering all that is Riyahd and the people that live there.  After two long flights (leaving Australia 6pm Monday and arriving in Saudi 7pm Tuesday 21st) and a 6 hour stopover in Singapore I finally arrived but my flight was so early that there was noone there to meet me.  Thanks to the wonderful Sinagpore Airlines employee that I got the attention of prior to Immigration and who escorted me through to the luggage hall where Justin's Dad, Brian met up with us.  Minor freak out over, we headed out of the airport and in to Riyahd, albeit it in a 3-tonne armoured vehicle.  A unique experience in itself. 

Brian and Bronwyn (Justin's Mum) had been invited out that evening, and the invitation had been extended to include me also.  I perfected a quick change, slapped on some make up and we were back out the door to Jim and Jenny Tanner's.  Jim is Head of the Brits in the Saudi National Guard.  We stayed for a couple of hours, chatted to some very interesting people and enjoyed some good food.  The Tanners were the perfect hosts and everyone looked to be having a great evening.  After the two hours though things were starting to get very hazy for me as the jetlag started to kick in so we called it a night and returned to the compound.

I slept like a baby and after starting the day with an email to Justin, was collected by Idris, an embasssy driver, and taken to pick up Louise, a long time resident of Riyadh and close friend of The Chambers'.  She had offered to act as tour guide which I can't thank her enough for - who wouldn't know that the places she took me existed or that as a 'tourist' you could go there.  It's hard to know what you can and can't do as a woman... but I did learn straight up that you can't drive and you must wear an abaya in public.  

Louise and I headed first to the Kuwaiti Souk where we spent a long time in the most wonderful Aladdin's cave of Haberdashery shops!  The place was a crafter's dream.  Wall to wall, floor to ceiling, room by room, every imaginable item you could think of was crammed in to this shop.  I could have walked out of there absolutely weighed down by all things beautiful but took the approach of if I didn't know there and then what I would do with it, then I wouldn't buy it.  It staved off all purchases, knowing I already have boxes of things I bought for that 'maybe one day' use.

We also visited a couple of abaya shops at the souk where I found one that I liked and purchased.  I know I was only there for a week but decided that if I had to wear one, it might as well be one that I felt good wearing.  And hey, it doesn't matter what you wear underneath so no staring in to the depths of the wardrobe for hours contemplating the day's attire.  We didn't wear the hijab (head scarf) to cover our heads, but we did have them draped around our necks in case we encountered the Mutawa, Religious Police, who would insist we 'cover, cover, cover, cover'.  (The Mutawa's role is 'the propagation of virtue and the prevention of vice'.)

Fabrics, Royal Mall, Riyahd

From the souk we headed over to the Royal Mall where the locals go to buy fabrics for the over-the-top ornate dresses that they wear to Saudi weddings.  And yes, they do get to be seen as the men and women separate after the ceremony and therefore the Abaya's are checked at the door, so to speak.  The range of colours, designs, fabrics and decoration was quite mind blowing.  The woman clearly go to a lot of trouble when it comes to dressing for an important occasion.

From there we headed back to Louise's part of town and her hair salon.  It is open from 12pm-10pm and as soon as that roller door goes up, the local women are queueing up for their little piece of pampering.  Due to the wearing of the abaya, it is important to the women to keep the things that can be seen beautiful... eye brows and nails, and to have only the best in bags and shoes.  We had a hair wash and blow dry - those girls know what they are doing - and then we were back on the street and straight on to the chicken shop, purveyors of excellent chicken and rice.  We took that back to Louise's apartment and enjoyed a tasty lunch followed by tea and mini cupcakes - beautifully decorated and equally as yummy.  

Home Compound

Louise went to work (2-10pm) and I was delivered to the NZ Embassy to drive home with Bronwyn and Brian.   We had a quiet-ish night at home with fellow Embassy employee, Vernice and her husband Graeme, who also live on the compound - which is well cared for and security strong.  (I'm talking vehicle checks, razor wire and machine guns.)

My education in Saudi has begun.

And finally some photos...

What a busy week - for both Justin and I it would seem.  He has been tied up with his fire training (ERT - Emergency Response Team), followed by hairdressing - both of which he has sent me photos of. 




That's Justin with the hose.



The fire training included, of course, using the hoses, entering a burning structure, extinguishing and the use of breathing apparatus.  One of the exercises saw the guys sitting in a burning container with breathing apparatus on for five minutes! 

They were also introduced to the 'Hagg' which has been used for transport on the ice for a number of years. The Hagg usually has an empty rear unit with seats - not the red pump unit, as pictured.


One of the final days of ERT training went from 9am-10pm... a very long day which meant that the training occurred in the dark and while everyone was tired.  Frightening stuff.

Hairdressing training was up next.  Held at the TAFE, the guys were taught basic hairdressing skills including straight cutting, layering, working with clippers and trimming beards.  During the summer months when the Davis station population swells to almost 100, their skills may be called upon by both male and female expeditioners and scientists as they can be there anything from 6 weeks - 4 months or a full year, like Justin.  Usually the 'winterers' like Justin will either keep their hair shaved or grow it long to keep things simple.  There is equipment at the base and that consists of all the basics for non-complex hairdressing.  So no perms kids!!


As for me, things keep trucking along but I now have Christoph staying, who is a delightful 20 yr old - quite different to any other 20 year old I know in that he is very independent, sociable and caring.  He is good company - I just feel bad that I can't spend more time with him and that my moods are a bit up and down at the moment.  He has also been most understanding and full of good humour.   

There are exciting things going on... I have flowers and wee courgettes on my plant!!  Check out these beauties...


My seedlings are looking fantastic and with any luck, Brian (my big brother) will come up this weekend (I am trying to lure him with a Swiss fondue!!) and help me complete my wee garden bed and get everything planted.


My other exciting news is that I am going to Riyahd for Christmas!  Justin's parents live there at the moment and have managed to convince me that I should go.  Now I am very much looking forward to it.  You can't enter Riyahd as a tourist and must have sponsorship in the country so Brian (Justin's dad) and Bronwyn have submitted my passport details at their end for approval but then I would also need to send my passport away here for receipt of the visa if that all goes okay.  Travelling on my own, I must be met at the airport by a male sponsor.  Women cannot travel unaccompanied throughout Riyahd.  There is a lot more information on this website.  In Saudi Arabia no alcohol, pork products or religious books not related to Islam are permitted.  I think this will be the most extreme cultural experience to date!