D-Day!!

December 25^th

Work started at around 6 o’clock.........I got stuck right in by making 40 large fresh English (breakfast) muffins, poached and refreshed 80 eggs, made about a litre of hollandaise, laid a couple of trays with sliced ham...........grabbed a coffee and got straight into blini making, cup cake icing.........etc, etc, etc, suffice it to say a lot was accomplished in a small amount of time. 

With all the planning and prep done over the previous days our Christmas menu went off almost like clock work.  All was accomplished and everybody had a wonderful time. 

I’m glad its over................ next year it’ll just be a sandwich on the beach with my lovely wife!!

 

Change of scenery

Amidst all the madness that was the week leading up to an Antarctic Christmas, I was where they don't celebrate Christmas, in Saudi Arabia, discovering all that is Riyahd and the people that live there.  After two long flights (leaving Australia 6pm Monday and arriving in Saudi 7pm Tuesday 21st) and a 6 hour stopover in Singapore I finally arrived but my flight was so early that there was noone there to meet me.  Thanks to the wonderful Sinagpore Airlines employee that I got the attention of prior to Immigration and who escorted me through to the luggage hall where Justin's Dad, Brian met up with us.  Minor freak out over, we headed out of the airport and in to Riyahd, albeit it in a 3-tonne armoured vehicle.  A unique experience in itself. 

Brian and Bronwyn (Justin's Mum) had been invited out that evening, and the invitation had been extended to include me also.  I perfected a quick change, slapped on some make up and we were back out the door to Jim and Jenny Tanner's.  Jim is Head of the Brits in the Saudi National Guard.  We stayed for a couple of hours, chatted to some very interesting people and enjoyed some good food.  The Tanners were the perfect hosts and everyone looked to be having a great evening.  After the two hours though things were starting to get very hazy for me as the jetlag started to kick in so we called it a night and returned to the compound.

I slept like a baby and after starting the day with an email to Justin, was collected by Idris, an embasssy driver, and taken to pick up Louise, a long time resident of Riyadh and close friend of The Chambers'.  She had offered to act as tour guide which I can't thank her enough for - who wouldn't know that the places she took me existed or that as a 'tourist' you could go there.  It's hard to know what you can and can't do as a woman... but I did learn straight up that you can't drive and you must wear an abaya in public.  

Louise and I headed first to the Kuwaiti Souk where we spent a long time in the most wonderful Aladdin's cave of Haberdashery shops!  The place was a crafter's dream.  Wall to wall, floor to ceiling, room by room, every imaginable item you could think of was crammed in to this shop.  I could have walked out of there absolutely weighed down by all things beautiful but took the approach of if I didn't know there and then what I would do with it, then I wouldn't buy it.  It staved off all purchases, knowing I already have boxes of things I bought for that 'maybe one day' use.

We also visited a couple of abaya shops at the souk where I found one that I liked and purchased.  I know I was only there for a week but decided that if I had to wear one, it might as well be one that I felt good wearing.  And hey, it doesn't matter what you wear underneath so no staring in to the depths of the wardrobe for hours contemplating the day's attire.  We didn't wear the hijab (head scarf) to cover our heads, but we did have them draped around our necks in case we encountered the Mutawa, Religious Police, who would insist we 'cover, cover, cover, cover'.  (The Mutawa's role is 'the propagation of virtue and the prevention of vice'.)

Fabrics, Royal Mall, Riyahd

From the souk we headed over to the Royal Mall where the locals go to buy fabrics for the over-the-top ornate dresses that they wear to Saudi weddings.  And yes, they do get to be seen as the men and women separate after the ceremony and therefore the Abaya's are checked at the door, so to speak.  The range of colours, designs, fabrics and decoration was quite mind blowing.  The woman clearly go to a lot of trouble when it comes to dressing for an important occasion.

From there we headed back to Louise's part of town and her hair salon.  It is open from 12pm-10pm and as soon as that roller door goes up, the local women are queueing up for their little piece of pampering.  Due to the wearing of the abaya, it is important to the women to keep the things that can be seen beautiful... eye brows and nails, and to have only the best in bags and shoes.  We had a hair wash and blow dry - those girls know what they are doing - and then we were back on the street and straight on to the chicken shop, purveyors of excellent chicken and rice.  We took that back to Louise's apartment and enjoyed a tasty lunch followed by tea and mini cupcakes - beautifully decorated and equally as yummy.  

Home Compound

Louise went to work (2-10pm) and I was delivered to the NZ Embassy to drive home with Bronwyn and Brian.   We had a quiet-ish night at home with fellow Embassy employee, Vernice and her husband Graeme, who also live on the compound - which is well cared for and security strong.  (I'm talking vehicle checks, razor wire and machine guns.)

My education in Saudi has begun.

Adventures abound and not without being poetic

Friday the tenth day of December............. 

I started work  in the kitchen at around 5:30am. Getting out of bed is becoming increasingly more difficult as my body becomes ever more in tune with the surroundings. I’m sleeping very well these days.......and its always day now. Pulling my curtains deprives about 99.9% of the light from making its way into my little kingdom, and makes for a peaceful rest. I’m still drinking about a litre of water a night...............I may just jimmy up a humidifier to be placed in front of my wall vent........................you know, a chux cloth, container of water and some thumb tacks. 

Anyway, making 10 loaves of wholemeal bread and 24 white rolls kick started my day also with the addition of a double strength long black made fresh from a well maintained ranchillo coffee machine. Breakfast for the station consists of large bowls of fresh tinned fruit, freshly made yogurt, toasted muesli, 11 different cereals , porridge, dried fruits, toast with all the conserves you can think of, plus at least another 10 you can’t.  Basically you can call this a continental breakfast ..............and for chefs .......we live for it. What it means is about ½ an hour of setting up and 10 minutes of putting away, as opposed to a full cooked breakfast which will basically be cooked during the entire length of the scheduled breakfast eating times and slow down the prep  for lunch etc.

So on this Friday I prepared a lunch of beef stroganoff, rice, penne pasta with sundried tomatoes, tuna bake, chicken satay, spinach and vegetable soup, full lunch salad buffet and various condiments..............oh, then I decided to make one of the most delicious hazelnut chocolate brownies in the world for my much loved extended family............... and as it turned out the brownies ended up topping off another unique and surreal day down here in the Antarctic.

As Australia has 5 main stations during summer, so does it also have five main chefs. From time to time we chat with each other or email requests etc.  With science and personnel flights between stations occurring at various times throughout the summer period opportunities are seized and equipment and or supplies’ are transferred where necessary. I just happened to be able to fulfil another request from the Mawson Chef Maria for supplies of differing meats and cuts and also rolled oats, juice and a few other odds ands ends. In return I asked for some candles (to make special occasions more so), spray oil (as our supply has run out and the AAD are fazing it out) and a sieve to replace the usual semi rusty and hole-ridden ones found in most kitchens around the world.  As DSL I was asked to make a return flight to Mawson and make a transfer of special cargo. As the chef I was stoked to be able accompany Maria's supplies and hand deliver it to her................and of course put a face to the emails and phone calls.

So at around 1230 I grabbed a quick three minute shower (we are on water restrictions at the moment anyway), packed a survival  bag (needed on all flights around the Antarctic), donned my Antarctic field gear and grabbed the camera and all the bits and bobs that go with it.  I met up with one of the fly boys in front of the LQ at around 1300, jumped into a golf buggy and proceeded to make our way over the ice to the skiway and the awaiting plane. As it turned out I managed to experience a little rain on my face as we neared the Casa. First of all rain down here in the Antarctic is virtually unheard of ................maybe a few times a year if you're lucky, and secondly Casa is the type of plane leased by the AAD for summers. The one I’m about to fly on  is a C212 call sign Snowbird 2, operated by skytraders Pty Ltd.

I was given a  safety briefing and a small rundown of what to expect during take off......for instance the cockpit stall warning alarm will come on during the take off due to altitude being needed before speed.  Cool.... so now I sign a piece of paper of understanding or basically allowing the pilots to bypass some of the protocols enforced in Australia.  Hey we are all down here to do the best job we can with the best equipment and brains around. The Antarctic poses a few challenges for most....you can just imagine what these flyboys come up against.

Well I was very comfortable with the level of professionalism shown by the crew and had no problems giving my john hancock.

The engines roared and noise cancelling headsets were donned (expensive Bose ones), pre-flight checks carried out by the pilots, location, destination and route were radioed to Davis comms.........then woosh.....we were off skidding over ice for about what seemed only 20-30 metres before the alarms sounded as we became airborne. The forward thrust kicked in and we began to ascend into a cloud filled sky. The alarms stopped and all that could be heard was the distant roar of the engines outside and the humming vibrations of the interior. Soon enough we were at six thousand feet and  levelling off . The noises eased and communications were established by all on board.... and when I say communication I mean school boy banter.... and boy are those guys witty.

So there I was cruising at 6 thousand feet, listening to wise cracks between the pilots and staring out of the window in absolute awe of the world below.... surreal again. The cloud cleared about half an hour into the journey revealing some stunning landscapes of crushed ice and weathered rock. Soon enough we were over the ocean and looking down at various stages of ice development and deterioration. As far as the eye could see were blocks of ice slowly bumping one another and all the time shaping themselves into various  geometrics so as to give the impression of a jigsaw being recently tipped out onto a dark blue table. Dotted amongst these seemingly repetitious ice fields were ice bergs. Gigantic when close these great floating chunks of ancient ice seemed only to impress me with there sharp and out of place shadows, and by the deep aqua shades of blue given out by the caves and crevices adorning them and not by their relative size. 

Unlike the helicopter ride last week to India and China, I was now seeing the Antarctic from a very special position, high above all else that resides down here and in the comfort of a heated plane cabin. I couldn’t help but just stare out of the window in amazement.... "If you could see what I see".  A still or video camera  would have a hard time capturing the images that were crawling beneath the plane and the complexity of emotions that come from seeing first hand these sights.  Unbelievable!!!

I’m still stoked as I’m writing this blog entry about the opportunity that was given to me and the memories I now have burned permanently into my brain..............Once in a lifetime!!!

Anyway as part of the flight we made a detour to capture images and do a rough head count of any penguins living on or near to two monoliths. The first monolith Murray (had to be an Aussie who came up with that one) was a huge piece of rock forced out and up thousands of years ago.  It definitely gave the appearance of something to be respected.............I’m not sure what it was......size, shape, location? I’m sure though that had there been any tribal people living in this environment...............Murray would have been declared a sacred place. We flew slowly around cameras clicking away.......the pilots taking advantage of their retractable windows and poking their lenses right out into the frigid air. Bird count around 50ish Adelie penguins.  Next we flew on to Scullin Monolith.............whose presence seemed to mirror Murray's both in size and in spiritual reverence.  The plane gracefully tacked its way around and over the wind polished and ice carved chunk of rock.  This was another surreal moment, for want of a better word.  Bird count, Adelies 50-100, Snow Petrels hundreds.

From here we flew on to Mawson arriving around just before 3pm, making the flight time just over 2 and a half hours.

There was a small greeting party gathered beside two very shiny looking Haggs at the end of the make shift ski way.  Only 5-600 meters from the station we exchanged goods including the food provisions which Maria got to thank me for in person. I said a quick g’day to the crew which I knew half of already, took a couple of happy snaps, soaked up some of the unfiltered sun and then proceeded to strap myself into my allocated seat in preparation for our departure.  In total 10 minutes were spent on the ground.  Boy I hope another opportunity presents itself for me to come back to Mawson cause the asthetics of the 360 degrees surrounding the station offer another kind of wonder.  Having the station juxtaposed against a picture perfect mountain rage flowing seamlessly into the melted marshmallow-looking glacier would not easily grow old in my book.

The ice seemed even different again as we flew back, the sun coming from another direction gave colours and shapes not seen on the flight in.  I grew a little tired  as the heater beside me kicked in.......... then all of a sudden a choking sound was heard in the cabin.  It was me.........I had woken myself up by snoring! Luckily only about 25 minutes had passed.  As it turned out the guys up the front were getting ready for a little snack (care package) Maria had made us. So I gratefully accepted a strong brew of java’s finest, a ham and cheese sandwich .........................and a brownie.

The next thing you know the guys flying this tin can were singing the praises of Maria's chocolate delight. Now don’t get me wrong it was very nice, and I very much enjoyed every mouthful but hey could I let it go?  Nup.  The next thing you know I was big upping my very own creation waiting back at Davis and guaranteeing it's superiority against any other. This is what we chefs do sometimes. LOL. The boys promised to compare and offer a non biased judgement (yeah right, they were about to try my creation in my kitchen and offer a non biased opinion?)...... I had just guaranteed myself the icing on what has been another uniquely special day. As it turned out just 10 minutes or so after this conversation we spotted a whale next to the ice on the left hand side of the plane.  I was sitting on the left so quickly grabbed my camera and snapped a few shots.  From eight thousand feet we could just make out the shape and markings of an orca. Now that was the icing on the cake............

Chocolate Hazelnut Brownie recipe to follow.

Photos from V1

The last Australian sunset from Aurora Australia V1

Ice forming on the ship

 Justin's voyage down to Antarctica was V1... the first of the new Antarctic year.  He took plenty of photos on board the ship but with email restrictions of only 10k for the duration of the journey, he was unable to send them until he got to Davis.  

He has been extremely busy for the first couple of days and will be again today.  The ship is scheduled to leave again on Saturday so things will start to settle down as that means that everything has been unloaded and delivered to base, and the departure of the 2009/10 wintering crew.  

An iceberg seen through Justin's sunglasses

We have been able to have a couple of short but very clear phone conversations as the service from base is excellent.  The signal from the ship was very up and down so we found it hard to talk.  Yesterday it was a quick call before getting stuck in to preparing lunch. Schnitzel.  Justin's menus will be posted as he gets in to a routine and has more time to sit down and get them sorted.

Me on the wharf waving goodbye

  It is hard to see me but right in the centre of the pictre, there I am, wrapped up warm - it was sunny but cold - waving to Justin.  We spoke on the phone, waved and took photos of each other right up until the ship sailed out of sight.

Justin has one more night to spend in temporary accommodation before moving to his permanent room, as the previous chef moves out, which will be much bigger.  He will be able to get unpacked and properly sorted.  I can't wait for him to open his boxes and find all the wee bits and pieces that I stashed in there for him! 

And, as declared, I have tried another new recipe this week and am still enjoying the results.  I went for Annie Clark's Carob Date Slice from her book Muffin Magic...vegan, wheat free, dairy free, gluten free, sugar free, egg free and low fat!!!  But don't turn your nose up... this is one mean slice that tastes decadent and naughty without the nasty side effects.  I can't get enough.  Check out Annie's facebook page.  And I am sure if you would like it, Annie wouldn't mind me giving you the recipe.  

Recipe no. 2: Carob Date Slice... success!

On the move again... and close to home

Although the ship is on the move again and heading for her ultimate destination, a couple of days ago, this was the status...

POSITION:  62° 26' S, 86° 28' E

Distance in the last 24 hours:  10.4 nm

Air temperature:  -4 deg c

Sea temperature:   -1.6 deg c
Heading:  Vessel parked in ice
Distance to next waypoint:  424 nm to Davis

The Aurora Australis has been ‘parked’ in the ice for around 3 days now. While the Sea-ice scientists, Meteorology, Communications, Aviation and Voyage Management teams have been flat chat, how have the majority of expeditioners been spending their days? Dave, a head-office employee undertaking a ‘familiarisation’ trip offered the following observations... Firstly, parked literally means parked – the ship was driven into a large flat ice floe a number of times until a short channel had been eked out and she was secure with ice all around her save the 50m track back to the open water. The ice floe we are temporarily calling home is about 7 kilometres across. The surface is like a frozen choppy ocean – think the top of a lemon meringue pie! Since the engines were stopped we have been very slowly drifting as one with the ice floe and the whim of current and weather. We have gracefully, albeit slowly, glided past icebergs with huge keels and big sail areas that create a gradual changing outlook.The ‘average’ expeditioner might get up and go to the gym for a while before breakfast and then spend the morning helping out in the galley peeling spuds, checking emails or doing personal chores such as washing. After lunch, served between 11.30 and 12.30 it might be a field-training session, more planning for your season’s activities, a game of cards, or stretching the legs on the helideck in the sun. Dinner starts at 5.30pm and is normally followed by a seminar in the theatrette that most go along to. A stream of movies is then played long into the night by those having trouble sleeping in what has become less than a 5 hour night. The lengthening days mean the sunsets have become long too and many have been up on the bridge or monkey deck (the deck above the bridge) trying to capture the 'moment' which ends up being an hour of magical and ever changing light. Sunday's sunset saw the first solar pillar which should feature in many of the pics sent home to family and friends.

This post is direct from the sitrep as I felt it worthy to share in full.  For more sitreps, visit the AAD website... it is packed full of interesting information about Antarctica.

I can't wait for Justin to reach the base and be able to send photos of the journey.  I am sure they will make great viewing here on the blog! 

In addition, if there is anything that you would like to ask Justin, just send me the question and I will forward on to him for answering. 

It's been a while

Which of course means that there is more to mention.  I haven't had the opportunity to update with limited internet access whilst in Hobart and returning to a busy household (all 2 of us!) on Friday with orders to get out and the market today to prepare for. 



Justin, Jo and Tony

The ship (not 'boat'), Aurora Australis, got away only minutes late on Thursday.  They were waiting for a French ship to leave the dock first, on its way to Antarctica also, before heading out to sea.  Justin and I got to say a very quick goodbye as it was suddenly sprung on all the expeditioners (not exhibitionists as I keep saying!) were told to say their goodbyes and head to the muster point, after which they were to head straight out the gate on to the wharf and board the ship. Once aboard, everyone was brought together to discuss procedures then they gathered their bags and made their way to their shared cabins.  Michelle, wife of Tony, the Summering chef, and I stood on the wharf for an hour and a half and waited for their departure.  The guys appeared out on deck where we could see them and from there we talked on the phone, waved to each other and took photos of one another.  

Justin, 3rd from left on lower deck

I was still okay at this point and even when the ship pulled away and Justin waved both arms for as long as I could still see the ship, everything was okay... we could still talk on the phone.  But as I was checking in to my airport hotel and the signal ran out, I was in tears at the reception desk as it suddenly hit home that that was that... reality really bites sometimes.  I phoned my big sister in tears and then let them all run down the plug hole in the shower.  I felt much better for it though and just looked forward to getting home. 

The Aurora Australis is now cruising... in a matter of speaking... the high seas, covering 218 nautical miles in the past 24 hours.  It has been rough going so far and according to today's update, it is going to get rougher still with 6.5m seas expected tomorrow.  Justin is finding it tough, and described it as being "on a ride in a theme park, the big dips leaving my stomach in my mouth".  And he has never liked theme park rides much!  It certainly doesn't help that he has also come down with a cold since boarding the ship... a double whammy.  I don't envy him one little bit since my stomach has not held up at all well on my sea adventures to date.

A worthy mention.... while we were in Hobart we had some lovely meals out, the two best when we were cooked for at friends' houses.  Thanks so much to both Noel and Sue, and Sandy and Bel for their gorgeous hospitality and equally gorgeous meals.  I look forward to a celebratory time in about 12 months when we can all get together again! 

Cucumbers and firemen

When is a cucumber not a cucumber?  Why when it's a zucchini, of course!  After thinking I had planted a cucumber plant, I gave it a good water today and was admiring the speed at which it has taken off. I took another look at the tag and lo and behold, I have a zucchini plant!  Even better since now I get to use the flowers as well.  Oh, Jamie Oliver, how you have inspired me.


I have lost my chef but next weekend gain another when Swiss Christoph arrives to stay with me for 4 weeks.  He is coming to learn english at Global Village here in Noosa.  I must have known something on Friday morning when I put on my Swiss t-shirt... I got a call from Global Village asking if I would take another Swiss student - arriving the same day that Christoph leaves.  Hell, why not aye?? 


Still, am not doing too bad myself in the kitchen.  Have just taken a GREAT smelling lasagne out of the oven and am sterilising some jars for a bread and butter pickle made with a recipe from when I was a kid staying at my friends' place - Diane and Nicola Mitchell.  Their mum used to make this and we delighted in having it on our cold meat sandwiches.  (I only recently 'found' Diane and Nicola again after a number of years out of contact and I can't say how comforting it is to have childhood friends in my life again even if it is only via facebook, phone and email at the moment.  Totally worth the time and effort to be back in touch!) 


Justin has had a busy week with another ahead.  Fire training took up two days last week and tomorrow is the first of another four, ending in a 9am-10pm day to train when they are tired and in the dark of night.  They will be entering burning buildings and having to do rescues.  Scary stuff if you ask me.  Last weekend, he did a First Aid course and is now a certified First Aider.  Today, Sunday, he spent packing up the last of his cargo, including the rest of his wine allocation and delivering it to the AAD.  It has to be delivered to the wharf by this Friday at the latest and with fire training Monday-Thursday, that doesn't leave a lot of time. 


It's great to be able to talk every day - more than once - at the moment but soon I am going to have to get used to a couple of phone calls a week.  Due to a trial currently, it is not expensive for Justin to call me from Antarctica.  I went online today to check what it would cost me to phone him and with our current provider... a mere $3.18 per minute!!!  Guess Antarctica is not in too much demand as a phone destination.  Telstra do offer a better deal so I will have to look in to that further.


Well, I have a pickle to finish and a lasagne to enjoy with big brother, Brian, and enjoy I will.  Here's to a busy week ahead. Jo

The Anaesthetist

Justin has been away for 8 days now, doing medical training in Hobart. At the beginning of the training they were assigned their roles in the operating theatre and Justin had thought that he would like to take on that of anaesthetist so was pleased when that is what he ended up with. Since then he has spent time nearly every day in theatre and has seen some remarkable surgeries including two caesarian sections, skin grafts and today a gastric bypass. Sharing the hospital with fully fledged and training medical staff has been an incredible experience for Justin and his colleagues and they are very aware of the privileged position they are in and the behaviour expected of them during their time there. I am absolutely blown away with what he has been learning and amazing experiences they've had. I am extremely proud of the way in which he has taken everything in and the way I know he will be conducting himself in the hospital environment. Much respect.

In addition to the hospital training, Justin has met fellow Davis base employees and had the opportunity to talk to people who have already been down to the Antarctic in the past few years. The knowledge that they are able to pass on is invaluable to Justin's preparations.

As for me, I have had a couple of not bad, but sad days when I have thought a lot about how it is going to be being on my own for so long but have decided that the only way to get by is going to be to stay focussed on what I want to achieve and take each day as it comes. I know there will be tough days but I will accept it as being a part of Justin's dream and know that I can handle it.

Just yesterday my friend Jenny and I took to some of the trees in our backyard with the chainsaw (having NEVER used a chainsaw before!) and took care of some brutal pruning. Bring it on!

We (Mr Bear and I) are very much looking forward to Justin's return this Saturday - even if it is only for a few days before he heads to Bali for some serious surfing!

From the beginning

In November 2009, Justin applied to the Australian Antarctic Division for a job. Knowing that we wouldn't hear anything until at least February, we had a few conversations about Antarctica and looked at the AAD website but didn't look at anything in too much detail. Well, not until Justin got a call inviting him to two days of interviews, discussions and group sessions in March. The only thing that was important for that was to be himself, work well in a group but be prepared to lead if necessary. Apparently he is good at all those aspects as the next phone call was very encouraging and a position at Davis base was mentioned, providing he first passed all the required medical tests as well as an interview appointment with an Army psychologist.

Everything took time, especially the blood test results. Hep C came back a false negative so that one had to be done again. Not enough blood was taken for the HIV test so Justin had to return to have that repeated as well. In the meantime he was referred to a skin doctor and had a mole removed from his leg. More time passed before the repeat tests came back clear and in the meantime Justin was asked to go to see an Opthamologist. He had a corneal transplant when he was 12 and needed to check that it was going to be okay in the freezing cold of the Antarctic. We waited 3 weeks after that test (by now it is July) until Justin had a call from the AAD saying that they had not received the results.

Last week we got a call from the AAD letting us know that the contract was on the way - all the results were in, they were happy with everything and we could finally celebrate! Until about an hour later when we got a call from another department asking for another Hep C test to be done in order that they would have two negatives after the false positive. We suddenly felt just as we had for the past couple of months... that feeling of not knowing, not being able to plan, not knowing whether we should hold off all ideas of celebrating.

Yesterday we got the all clear. The feeling is great, we can plan for Justin's departure but the need to celebrate is gone. It just IS now. But, we now know what is going on and that feeling is fantastic. This Sunday Justin leaves for Tasmania to spend two weeks in a hospital, training to be a theatre nurse. Chefs, knife skills, logical choice. We don't have a lot of time together now as he leaves again on September 1 for the main Antarctic training and there will only be a few days between that ending and the ship leaving for its two week journey to the South Pole.

Now, if that contract would just arrive so that we can get all the paperwork dealt with (and there is A LOT), we will be on our way to being organised!