Four days to go

Tuesday 21st December..... 

With the menu finalized for Christmas it’s now time for the gathering of ingredients, writing of comprehensive prep lists with time lines, ascertaining the whereabouts of display racks etc... and generally pulling the finger out and getting stuck into all that will be Christmas.

First of all I grab the ute and head off to the green store and proceed to accumulate a stack of boxes containing frozen meats and seafood....... from there I head off to the refers (refrigerated containers) located just down the slope from the LQ and right next to the smokers hut.  Filled with citrus, apples and melons in one and potatoes, carrots onions etc in another, I gather half a dozen new boxes to add to the already ladened 4x4 and with tunes blaring (music pumped out around the station via fm from a tune heavy computer located in the wallow) I set off back to the kitchen.

View from kitchen

Its 9am and the temperature is already 2 degrees above 0. Summer is slowly taking hold in the hills around my new home.  Looking out to the encroaching ocean all I can see is white........... not the white I was met with on arrival aboard the Aurora Australis, but more mid tones. Lots of brownie-creams created from the dust that now competes successfully for space previously occupied by snow and ice.  Also, shades of gray are beginning to erode the once pristine field of frozen water... not only in ever widening cracks but also in growing pools of slushy mush that are now giving the landscape a pattern referred to in military circles as arctic camouflage. Mottled greys, large splotches of white and darker shadows cast from a low sun looking upon an uneven surface, all paint a picture of a rapidly decaying bay of crystallised water.  Only a few titans of ice hold this now fragile formation in suspension. I keep looking out at the horizon.... now bored with the same old vista... a good part of me is wanting the dispersion of the same ole, same ole. But hey, soon enough I know I'll be wishing for the blues of our ocean to be sucked of colour so I can feel more Antarctic and clean again.  Life outside of Davis changes fast... but it’s sometimes too subtle to appreciate on a daily basis.

Chinese delegation

Getting a visit by a Chinese delegation comprising of the director of the Chinese Antarctic programme,  deputies,  both the ingoing and outgoing station leaders and some other top officials help keep the monotony on the inside of Davis from ever leaving the start line.  I play this day very much like the day before......though I leave the beer tasting alone out of respect for the positions held by our Asian tourists.  I snapped again some photos of their transport, this time it’s a Chinese made, French designed "dauphin". The tail rotors encircled by a fibreglass casing ensure the noise levels are kept right down.... as these puppies spin close to the speed of sound, only a high pitch whistly whine can be heard... very cool to observe. I just couldn't resist a traveller's shot in front of the helicopter just moments before its departure.

Photos from V1

The last Australian sunset from Aurora Australia V1

Ice forming on the ship

 Justin's voyage down to Antarctica was V1... the first of the new Antarctic year.  He took plenty of photos on board the ship but with email restrictions of only 10k for the duration of the journey, he was unable to send them until he got to Davis.  

He has been extremely busy for the first couple of days and will be again today.  The ship is scheduled to leave again on Saturday so things will start to settle down as that means that everything has been unloaded and delivered to base, and the departure of the 2009/10 wintering crew.  

An iceberg seen through Justin's sunglasses

We have been able to have a couple of short but very clear phone conversations as the service from base is excellent.  The signal from the ship was very up and down so we found it hard to talk.  Yesterday it was a quick call before getting stuck in to preparing lunch. Schnitzel.  Justin's menus will be posted as he gets in to a routine and has more time to sit down and get them sorted.

Me on the wharf waving goodbye

  It is hard to see me but right in the centre of the pictre, there I am, wrapped up warm - it was sunny but cold - waving to Justin.  We spoke on the phone, waved and took photos of each other right up until the ship sailed out of sight.

Justin has one more night to spend in temporary accommodation before moving to his permanent room, as the previous chef moves out, which will be much bigger.  He will be able to get unpacked and properly sorted.  I can't wait for him to open his boxes and find all the wee bits and pieces that I stashed in there for him! 

And, as declared, I have tried another new recipe this week and am still enjoying the results.  I went for Annie Clark's Carob Date Slice from her book Muffin Magic...vegan, wheat free, dairy free, gluten free, sugar free, egg free and low fat!!!  But don't turn your nose up... this is one mean slice that tastes decadent and naughty without the nasty side effects.  I can't get enough.  Check out Annie's facebook page.  And I am sure if you would like it, Annie wouldn't mind me giving you the recipe.  

Recipe no. 2: Carob Date Slice... success!

The last sitrep for this journey

Tuesday 16-Nov-2010

Report (sitrep) no. 126
Universal time: 0700
Australian Time: 1800 (Eastern Standard/Summer)
Position on Map: 68° 34' S, 77° 53' E (degrees latitude, longitude)
Heading: parked in ice
Current speed: at Davis
Distance in last 24 hours: 52.5 nm (nautical miles)
Distance to next waypoint:  (nautical miles)
Weather conditions: 1/8 cloud cover, E’ly winds E’ly 10 knots
Air temperature: 2 (degrees Celsius)
Sea temperature: -1.7 (degrees Celsius)
Sea conditions: Nil
Ice conditions: 10/10 fast-ice

Remarks:
We arrived at station this morning and parked up in the ice. Lovely to see the snow-capped islands off Davis tinged with morning sun. The station leader and deputy came out to the ship and briefed everyone on board about station rules and procedures. After that, began the process of getting everyone ashore for station and vehicle inductions. We have gone from being a rowdy ship to extremely quiet, and vice versa for station! It is good to see some familiar faces of the wintering crew again. Refuelling and cargo operations commenced today amidst glorious blue sky and sunshine. We are hoping for similar conditions tomorrow. REGARDS: Karin, Sharon & Lance

And the first email from Davis...
 
"Heya dear........big day as you may have expected.  Have just got my email up and running, its now 10:30 at night and I’m knackered.
Will hopefully email you tomorrow with an update etc.........
Love you very much"
XXXOOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXO

Well, that's the end of the sitreps for this year's summerers and winterers but of course, the Aurora Australis now has to refuel and do all that needs doing before bringing back the 2009/2010 winterers to Australian shores.  As for Justin, the journey now begins.  I can't wait to start receiving news of the base and what he is up to but I know that these first few days especially are going to be very busy for him.
 
If you would like to send Justin a question, please do so in the comments.

And so the ship comes to rest

After 3 weeks and 4 days, the ship has reached Davis base.  The Aurora Australis is approximately 3kms from the base, parked up in the ice.  Some people have been taken by helicopter to the base as they have an important part to play in the disembarkation and refuel, some will be transported by Hagg and others will want to walk the 3-4kms to the base. 

It is a little hard to see in this photo taken by the webcam but you can click here to see the AAD Davis webcam which shows further photos of the ship parked up and is updated every 10 mins.  You can see a bright white line across to the ship which is what the vehicles will follow to get out to the ship and back when unloading.  I have yet to find out how the containers get transported from ship to base but am sure I will.   

Yesterday's sitrep read like this:

Position:  68° 4' S, 77° 52' E

Distance in last 24 hours:  182.6 nm 

Air temperature:  0 deg c

Sea temperature:  -1.2 deg c


"Steaming along to Davis and making good progress. The weather has been quite balmy with light winds and temperatures zero and above. The sightings of wildlife has increased markedly since we came around the West Ice shelf and further south, and the cameras have been steadily clicking away capturing the moments from wildlife to magnificent sunsets. All on board are greatly looking forward to arriving at Davis."

And an update for all crew on board...
"The dart competition was fiercely contested this evening in the bar with Justin "the arrow" Chambers, and Ryan Madden pitted against one another in a nail biting finale!  Justin won the first game and Ryan fought back to take out the second with both games being extremely close in points. The final game was a heated battle and it all came down to "doubles" with Justin "the arrow" living up to his name and taking the game 114 to 97 and therefore winning the competition."

I am very excited for Justin... and now the hard work starts!

All and any comments/questions for Justin will be passed on and answered.

On the move again... and close to home

Although the ship is on the move again and heading for her ultimate destination, a couple of days ago, this was the status...

POSITION:  62° 26' S, 86° 28' E

Distance in the last 24 hours:  10.4 nm

Air temperature:  -4 deg c

Sea temperature:   -1.6 deg c
Heading:  Vessel parked in ice
Distance to next waypoint:  424 nm to Davis

The Aurora Australis has been ‘parked’ in the ice for around 3 days now. While the Sea-ice scientists, Meteorology, Communications, Aviation and Voyage Management teams have been flat chat, how have the majority of expeditioners been spending their days? Dave, a head-office employee undertaking a ‘familiarisation’ trip offered the following observations... Firstly, parked literally means parked – the ship was driven into a large flat ice floe a number of times until a short channel had been eked out and she was secure with ice all around her save the 50m track back to the open water. The ice floe we are temporarily calling home is about 7 kilometres across. The surface is like a frozen choppy ocean – think the top of a lemon meringue pie! Since the engines were stopped we have been very slowly drifting as one with the ice floe and the whim of current and weather. We have gracefully, albeit slowly, glided past icebergs with huge keels and big sail areas that create a gradual changing outlook.The ‘average’ expeditioner might get up and go to the gym for a while before breakfast and then spend the morning helping out in the galley peeling spuds, checking emails or doing personal chores such as washing. After lunch, served between 11.30 and 12.30 it might be a field-training session, more planning for your season’s activities, a game of cards, or stretching the legs on the helideck in the sun. Dinner starts at 5.30pm and is normally followed by a seminar in the theatrette that most go along to. A stream of movies is then played long into the night by those having trouble sleeping in what has become less than a 5 hour night. The lengthening days mean the sunsets have become long too and many have been up on the bridge or monkey deck (the deck above the bridge) trying to capture the 'moment' which ends up being an hour of magical and ever changing light. Sunday's sunset saw the first solar pillar which should feature in many of the pics sent home to family and friends.

This post is direct from the sitrep as I felt it worthy to share in full.  For more sitreps, visit the AAD website... it is packed full of interesting information about Antarctica.

I can't wait for Justin to reach the base and be able to send photos of the journey.  I am sure they will make great viewing here on the blog! 

In addition, if there is anything that you would like to ask Justin, just send me the question and I will forward on to him for answering. 

Sun rise, sun set

"All is good in the hood.  We are travelling in and out of pack ice at the moment. We should be at the Davis fast around Friday.... then a day's push through to be there by Saturday. We are seeing penguins every now and then..... and also likewise seals. The weather is all over the place..........sunny, cloudy, snow, cloud, wind, no wind. The sun sets around 7:30ish I think but it stays light for another 2-3 hours after..........pretty colours. It rises around 4-5ish.. though again it's light at least two hours beforehand."

And from the sitrep...

POSITION:  62° 46' S, 85° 14' E

DISTANCE IN LAST 24 HOURS:  201 nautical miles

AIR TEMPERATURE:  -2 deg c

SEA TEMPERATURE:  -1.2 deg c

ICE CONDITIONS:  4/10 first year small floes 


SPEED:  6 knots

As the night closed in we were cruising along at a fair old speed for the Aurora Australis – 13 knots running on both engines. We were following highways of open ocean that opened up before us through the ice. As dawn approached, the open water had turned into a thin layer of grey grease ice that shimmered, like a piece of silk blowing in a light breeze, as the ship left her wake.

Justin phoned on Saturday morning, and anticipating that, I didn't leave the house.  At around 11am the call came and we had a great chat as always.  I even managed to get his Summer Pudding recipe out of him... I could repeat it here but I would be revealing a secret ingredient and that just wouldn't be cool!  Soooo, I gave it a go and wow, talk about yummy.  Carol, Mum, Jenny, Martin and I thoroughly enjoyed both the Thai curry to start and the summer pudding.  I, probably, moreso just because it was my first and so good.  Now, there is something that I would like to commit to while Justin is away and that is to try one new recipe each week... I didn't think I would start until Martin leaves and I am on my own but seeing as how I already tried something new last night, I thought I would dive in head first and see how I land.  So 1. Summer Pudding... successful.   Watch this space.

Thursday and nothing but rain

I wasn't sure if he had heard already in their short news reports so I sent an email to Justin informing him of World Champion Surfer, Andy Iron's very unfortunate death. He was as shocked as the rest of us, understandably, and hoped that when Andy died he felt as loved as he does. Needless to say, I started my day all choked up.



Andy Irons

POSITION:  60° 41' S, 100° 7' E

Distance in last 24 hours:  267.9 nm

Air temperature:  -2 deg c

Sea temperature:  -1.2 deg c

Speed:  12 knots

Sea conditions:  NW’ly combined sea / swell 2 m 

Whilst the clouds haven't parted all day to show even a snippet of blue sky, things just keep getting colder at sea.But cold aside, a fun day was had by all in celebration of the Melbourne Cup.  More money was raised for Camp Quality and they even got the all clear to venture out on to the open decks after being kept below deck for over a day.  There was even a celebration lunch including fresh asparagus soup, chicken kebabs and calamari stir fry.  All good on board the Aurora Australis!

Here, I made smoked fish pie with crab and prawns - and it was gooooood.  Apart from what I ate, Martin, the Swiss German student, consumed the rest.  It looks like I have to think of something else for tomorrow night.  I could have sworn it would be enough for two nights but Martin is taking surfing lessons at the moment and comes home very hungry at the end of each day.  Now he has his head well and truly down in his English language homework.

Me... I think, after a tiring day, it is time to hit the sack. 

Sad news

POSITION:   59 44 S 123 46 E

DISTANCE COVERED LAST 24 HOURS (NAUTICAL MILES): 298.7 nm

AIR TEMPERATURE:  3 deg C

SEA TEMPERATURE:   0.03  deg C

CURRENT SPEED:  12 knots

LOCAL (SHIP) TIME: 1200

AUSTRALIAN EASTERN STANDARD SUMMER TIME: 1500

Although they haven't redirected their course back to their original, to the Australia Antarctic bases, the Aurora Australis is no longer needed for a rescue but for support now that the 4 bodies from the helicopter crash have been recovered.  They will stay in the vicinity of the L'Astrolabe should she need any assistance whilst transitting the ice.  The mood at sea is one of sadness and a one minute silence has been observed in respect for the deceased, their crew and loved ones. There is a growing relationship between the Australian Antarctic Division and the French Antarctic Expeditioners and the ship from which the helicopter came was the very same that left Macquarie wharf only minutes prior to the Aurora Australis on 21 October. I waved to the French as they were leaving as they didn't have their own friends and family there to wave them off. It seemed the right thing to do.

An emergency response exercise was held onboard the Aurora Australis yesterday and everyone got to try out their Antarctic gear as they were outside in 1 deg c - for about 45 mins and if you were not on the ERT, you were standing observing for the duration of the exercise.  Hobart and Mt Wellington were cold enough for me! 

The first ice has been observed on the ship's radar but no sighting as yet.  It is rumoured to be only hours away though so a winner of the sweepstake will be revealed soon.

Media Release

29 OCTOBER 2010


AMSA COORDINATING SEARCH FOR HELICOPTER IN ANTARCTICA

The Australian Maritime Safety Authority is currently coordinating a
search for a helicopter approximately 100 kilometres from the Dumont
D'Urville base in Antarctica.


AMSA's Rescue Coordination (RCC) was notified at 9.05pm 28 October
2010 of a 406 MHz distress beacon activation from an AS350 Squirrel
helicopter with four male French nationals on board.


The helicopter operates in Antarctica from the French research vessel
L'Astrolabe.  The helicopter was reported to have departed the ship 20
minutes after another helicopter enroute to Dumont D'Urville base but failed
to arrive. L'Astrolabe is currently positioned about 370 kilometres North
East of Dumont D'Urville and is icebound.


The helicopter was last observed on the helicopters tracking system at an
altitude of  29 feet at 20 knots. There has been no radio communication with
the helicopter.


The distress beacon remains active and RCC Australia has tasked a United
State Air Force C17 jet from Christchurch New Zealand, a Royal Australian
Air Force AP3 Orion aircraft from Darwin with emergency drop capability to
the distress location. The Australian Antarctic Division ship Aurora
Australis with two helicopters on board has also been diverted.


RCC Australia is also making contingency plans to evacuate any potential
casualties by aircraft from the ice runway at Dumont D'Urville to McMurdo
Base and then to mainland Australia or New Zealand if required.


It is anticipated that the United States Air Force jet will reach the location
of the helicopter at about 10.00am this morning where it will attempt to
establish radio communication.

Just because I can



All fresh and new

 
...Mr Bear had a haircut yesterday and I decided, finally, to take a photo while he was fresh off the press and still looked and smelled like a designer dog.  Trust me, it doesn't ever last long!

If you are wondering if one ear is longer than the other... it is.  I turned up early to pick him up (wrong, wrong, wrong!) and poor Julie had to battle with him wriggling around and whining for about 10 minutes while she desperately tried to finish the job and I hid hoping that he would forget that he had seen me.  Sorry Julie!!

Onboard the Aurora Australis it is Trivia night... with pizza and beer!  The ship is dry apart from organised social events and then everyone is entitled to only 3 drinks, I believe.  The clocks go back another hour tonight as they get further away from Australia.  They will end up 5 hours behind by the time they reach base.


POSITION:  55° 19' S, 113° 25' E

Distance travelled last 24 hours:  224.5 nautical miles

Air Temperature:  0 deg c

Sea temperature:  1.9 deg c

Speed:  7 knots

No ice has been spotted yet but rumour has it that once they reach ice, the weather and conditions will improve dramatically.  Good news.

It's been a while

Which of course means that there is more to mention.  I haven't had the opportunity to update with limited internet access whilst in Hobart and returning to a busy household (all 2 of us!) on Friday with orders to get out and the market today to prepare for. 



Justin, Jo and Tony

The ship (not 'boat'), Aurora Australis, got away only minutes late on Thursday.  They were waiting for a French ship to leave the dock first, on its way to Antarctica also, before heading out to sea.  Justin and I got to say a very quick goodbye as it was suddenly sprung on all the expeditioners (not exhibitionists as I keep saying!) were told to say their goodbyes and head to the muster point, after which they were to head straight out the gate on to the wharf and board the ship. Once aboard, everyone was brought together to discuss procedures then they gathered their bags and made their way to their shared cabins.  Michelle, wife of Tony, the Summering chef, and I stood on the wharf for an hour and a half and waited for their departure.  The guys appeared out on deck where we could see them and from there we talked on the phone, waved to each other and took photos of one another.  

Justin, 3rd from left on lower deck

I was still okay at this point and even when the ship pulled away and Justin waved both arms for as long as I could still see the ship, everything was okay... we could still talk on the phone.  But as I was checking in to my airport hotel and the signal ran out, I was in tears at the reception desk as it suddenly hit home that that was that... reality really bites sometimes.  I phoned my big sister in tears and then let them all run down the plug hole in the shower.  I felt much better for it though and just looked forward to getting home. 

The Aurora Australis is now cruising... in a matter of speaking... the high seas, covering 218 nautical miles in the past 24 hours.  It has been rough going so far and according to today's update, it is going to get rougher still with 6.5m seas expected tomorrow.  Justin is finding it tough, and described it as being "on a ride in a theme park, the big dips leaving my stomach in my mouth".  And he has never liked theme park rides much!  It certainly doesn't help that he has also come down with a cold since boarding the ship... a double whammy.  I don't envy him one little bit since my stomach has not held up at all well on my sea adventures to date.

A worthy mention.... while we were in Hobart we had some lovely meals out, the two best when we were cooked for at friends' houses.  Thanks so much to both Noel and Sue, and Sandy and Bel for their gorgeous hospitality and equally gorgeous meals.  I look forward to a celebratory time in about 12 months when we can all get together again! 

Congratulations are in order!

Great news... Justin applied for the position of Deputy Station Leader (DSL) at Davis and got it!! 

As DSL he will be appointed as an Inspector under Antarctic environmental legislation (the Antarctic Treaty (Environment Protection) Act and the Antarctic Marine Living Resources Conservation Act ) and as a Special Constable under the Criminal Procedure Ordinance in the Australian Antarctic Territory.

It does mean increased responsibilities and a greater workload while he is at Davis but he is excited about learning more on the operational side.  He will also assume the position of Station Leader when the SL is off base.  Being a Special Constable, it also means that he is able to conduct an arrest should it be required of him!  Colour me proud.

I arrived in Hobart yesterday to spend the week with Justin and, inevitably, say goodbye next Thursday 21 October when the crew all board the ship for their journey to Davis.  As we drove in to Hobart from the airport, we could see the Aurora Australis that will transport everyone to Davis, slowly leaving the harbour for sea trials.  I won't get the opportunity to get up close to the boat but Justin was able to get close enough to take photos when it was  berthed in the harbour in Hobart up until yesterday.  Check out the link to find out more about the boat, including size and spec details.

As for me, I have never been to Hobart before and am pleasantly surprised by what I find.  It's a very pretty city and I was lucky enough to fly in on a gorgeous October afternoon.  It was fresh but sunny.  Today, however, it is grey, rainy and cold.  As Justin drove me around the city yesterday, he made the comment that we could be almost anywhere in New Zealand and he was right.  The small city centre, the hills and the colonial style buildings... what a breath of fresh air.